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Legait, however, was undeterred. Instead, she began looking for smaller suppliers in France, specifically outside of Toulouse, where the brand is headquartered, so she could watch Basrange’s products grow from scratch. “When I started working in fashion, there was hardly any [clothing manufacturing] here,” she says. “But since COVID, the industry has grown very, very quickly, and most suppliers have many sustainable options that we can choose from.”
On a tour of the French countryside with Legait this summer, we visited VirgoCoop, a co-op founded in 2018 that works with local farmers to grow hemp and spin it into yarn; Filatures du Parc, a knitwear recycling factory acquired by Chanel in 2020; and Missègle, a family-run knitwear facility that specializes in natural textiles. We also stopped by L’Atelier des Bleus Pastel d’Occitanie, another family-owned business working to revive dyeing in the region. Founder Denise Lambert and her small team recently worked to turn 1,000 Baserange pieces into a beautiful natural blue. “There are so many initiatives, so it’s great to be able to participate and have a local network,” Legait says.
“At first, the challenge was getting organic fabrics,” Legait says. “There were very few options, so we had to create collections in small batches.” Techniques like natural dyeing also made it difficult to scale the business. The designers started working with suppliers in Turkey and Portugal, “but we couldn’t really find sustainable quality,” Legait continues. “For example, with knitwear, there were always synthetics mixed in. Always. Same with socks. There was too much polyamide.”
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