“At first, the challenge was getting organic fabrics,” Legait says. “There were very few options, so we had to create collections in small batches.” Techniques like natural dyeing also made it difficult to scale the business. The designers started working with suppliers in Turkey and Portugal, “but we couldn’t really find sustainable quality,” Legait continues. “For example, with knitwear, there were always synthetics mixed in. Always. Same with socks. There was too much polyamide.”
Legait, however, was undeterred. Instead, she began looking for smaller suppliers in France, specifically outside of Toulouse, where the brand is headquartered, so she could watch Basrange’s products grow from scratch. “When I started working in fashion, there was hardly any [clothing manufacturing] here,” she says. “But since COVID, the industry has grown very, very quickly, and most suppliers have many sustainable options that we can choose from.”
It’s a laudable mission, but not an easy business model to sustain. Not really, as Mara Hoffman made clear in an open letter announcing the closure of her eponymous business after 20 years in May. “Ultimately, the structure [of the fashion industry] is outdated and was never built to prioritize the Earth and its inhabitants,” she wrote. “It’s no secret that its ‘success’ can be harmful, unchecked, and exploitative in so many ways.”
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