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A scheme devised by Ernest Bevin, the Secretary of State for Labour and National Service, showed how useful Vogue could be. He was shocked by the statistics of accidents caused by long hair among women new to factory work. Government circulars were not working, so Bevin instructed Withers to issue a decree that long hair was out of fashion. The fair editor found the imposition of such a taboo suspicious – not least because Vogue had already endorsed long hair like Veronica Lake – but of course she complied. Lee Miller took the photographs. Within days, other newspapers followed her example and such accidents plummeted. Vogue was no longer just about fashion, it had the power, if it wanted to, to change fashion, to make things happen.

From the front, Miller’s reports in words and pictures, a trickle that turned into a deluge, astounded Withers and her team. She published what she felt she could. Much of it was uncompromisingly grim, and readers were equally astounded by what they read. And saw. Her adventures were hardly credible. She witnessed the siege of Saint-Malo (where napalm was first used), endured the terrible winter of the Alsace campaign, and marched the US 3rd Infantry Division to Hitler’s mountain fortress as it burned. When she walked through the gates of Dachau concentration camp, she came face to face with Nazi brutality. Perhaps her steely resolve was unprepared for the horrors she witnessed: “I beg you to believe that this is true,” the telegram accompanying her photographs read. Withers published, among other images, the tangled limbs of corpses stacked on top of each other.

A libertarian socialist, Withers had political connections. Behind the scenes, Brendan Bracken at the Ministry of Information was quick to recognize the role of a women’s magazine—and this women’s magazine above all—in the spirit of the home front and opened a dialogue. In return, Withers secured an additional paper allocation that kept British Vogue afloat as other magazines closed. The magazine’s circulation skyrocketed. At the time, there was a myth that a subscriber had to die before a new one could sign up.

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